Skinactive CMC

Skinactive CMC, also known as carboxymethyl chitosan (CMC), is a water-soluble derivative of chitosan, a natural polysaccharide derived from chitin. CMC is created by reacting chitosan with carboxymethyl groups, a process catalyzed by an acid, such as hydrochloric acid. The resulting product is a white to off-white powder that can dissolve in water and alcohol.

Carboxymethyl chitosan is a derivative of chitosan that has been extensively researched due to its water solubility in a wider pH range compared to the original compound. This extended solubility has increased its potential for various applications. In this review, the different preparation conditions resulting in N- and O-carboxylated chitosan, diverse degrees of substitution, and water solubility are summarized. Five important features of carboxymethyl chitosan from recent studies, including moisture absorption-retention, antimicrobial properties, antioxidant capacities, delivery system, and emulsion stabilization, are highlighted for potential cosmetic use. Additionally, comprehensive information on its cytotoxicity has been included to ensure its safety in application.

INCI name: Carboxymethyl Chitosan

Other name: Carboxymethylchitosan; N-Carboxymethylchitosan
CAS: 83512-85-0
Appearance: white to light yellow powder

Carboxymethyl Chitosan (CMC) is a modified derivative of chitosan, a naturally occurring biopolymer obtained from chitin, which is primarily sourced from the shells of crustaceans like shrimp and crabs. It is commonly used in cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and biotechnological applications due to its biocompatibility, biodegradability, and unique functional properties.

Carboxymethyl Chitosan is created by chemically modifying chitosan through the introduction of carboxymethyl groups (-CH2COOH) into the chitosan molecule. This modification enhances its solubility in water, making it more useful in aqueous formulations, especially in cosmetic and skincare products.


Chemical Properties

  • Structure: Carboxymethyl Chitosan is derived from chitosan, where some of the hydroxyl groups (-OH) of the glucosamine units in the chitosan polymer are substituted with carboxymethyl groups (-CH2COOH). This chemical modification increases the solubility of chitosan in water, particularly at neutral to slightly acidic pH levels.

  • Solubility: Carboxymethyl Chitosan is soluble in water, unlike unmodified chitosan, which is poorly soluble in water. This makes it highly useful for aqueous formulations and products where water-based systems are required.

  • Viscosity: Due to its polymeric nature, Carboxymethyl Chitosan can contribute to the viscosity of a formulation. It can act as a thickening agent in cosmetic products.

  • Stability: Carboxymethyl Chitosan is stable under normal conditions but can degrade in extreme acidic or alkaline environments. It is also biodegradable and considered environmentally friendly.


Functions and Benefits in Cosmetics

  1. Moisturizing Agent:

    • Carboxymethyl Chitosan is an effective humectant, meaning it helps to attract and retain moisture in the skin. It binds water to the skin’s surface, providing long-lasting hydration and making the skin soft and smooth. This makes it a popular ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and creams for dry or dehydrated skin.
  2. Skin Barrier Repair:

    • Carboxymethyl Chitosan can repair and strengthen the skin’s natural barrier. It forms a protective film on the skin’s surface, which helps retain moisture and protect against harmful environmental factors such as pollutants and allergens. This barrier-forming property is especially useful in formulations designed for sensitive skin.
  3. Anti-inflammatory and Soothing:

    • Due to its natural origins and gentle nature, Carboxymethyl Chitosan possesses anti-inflammatory properties that help calm irritated or inflamed skin. It is commonly included in products aimed at treating sensitive skin, sunburns, and skin conditions such as eczema and rosacea.
  4. Wound Healing and Skin Regeneration:

    • Carboxymethyl Chitosan has been shown to support skin regeneration and wound healing. It can stimulate the production of collagen and other extracellular matrix components, which help repair damaged skin and improve skin elasticity. This makes it an important ingredient in post-procedure products, healing gels, and after-sun care.
  5. Antimicrobial Properties:

    • Some studies suggest that Carboxymethyl Chitosan has antimicrobial properties, helping to inhibit the growth of bacteria and fungi. This makes it useful in anti-acne products, antibacterial creams, and shampoos formulated to treat scalp infections.
  6. Film-Forming Agent:

    • Carboxymethyl Chitosan acts as an effective film-forming agent, creating a thin, flexible, and non-occlusive film on the skin. This film can help protect the skin from environmental stressors, retain moisture, and enhance the longevity of cosmetic products. This property is often utilized in sunscreens, anti-aging creams, and moisturizing masks.
  7. Antioxidant Activity:

    • Some research has shown that Carboxymethyl Chitosan possesses mild antioxidant properties, helping to neutralize free radicals and protect the skin from oxidative stress. This can contribute to the anti-aging effects of formulations containing this ingredient.

Formulation Considerations

  1. Concentration:

    • Typical Usage: Carboxymethyl Chitosan is typically used in cosmetic formulations at concentrations of 0.1% to 3%, depending on the desired viscosity and performance of the product. Higher concentrations may be used in formulations targeting intensive moisture retention or film-forming properties.
  2. Formulation Types:

    • Moisturizers and Creams: Carboxymethyl Chitosan is commonly found in hydrating creams, lotions, and serums due to its moisture-retention and skin-soothing properties.
    • Anti-Aging Products: In anti-aging formulations, Carboxymethyl Chitosan can provide skin regeneration, hydration, and barrier repair, helping to improve skin texture and elasticity.
    • Sunscreens: It is used in sunscreens to provide an additional layer of protection from UV damage and to help maintain skin hydration.
    • Shampoos and Hair Care: Carboxymethyl Chitosan is also used in shampoos and conditioners to enhance hair moisture and manageability, as well as to provide scalp protection.
    • Wound Care and Aftercare Products: Due to its wound-healing and anti-inflammatory properties, Carboxymethyl Chitosan is included in post-surgical, post-procedure, or after-sun care products.
  3. pH Considerations:

    • Carboxymethyl Chitosan is stable in a wide pH range (approximately 4.0 to 8.0), making it suitable for a variety of skincare and haircare products. Its solubility in water makes it adaptable to different pH formulations.
  4. Compatibility:

    • It is compatible with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients, including emollients, humectants, emulsifiers, and active ingredients like vitamins, botanical extracts, and antioxidants. It enhances the texture and feel of products while improving overall performance.

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