What PTFE and Fluoropolymers Actually Do in Formulas
PTFE powders and fluoropolymer-treated solids are rarely “one benefit” ingredients. Instead, they deliver a bundle of performance effects that show up together: low drag glide, improved payoff, soft-focus diffusion, sebum resistance, and—when paired with the right film former—better transfer control. Consequently, “remove PTFE” often breaks multiple levers at once, which is why a simple one-to-one substitution usually fails.
To replace fluoropolymers correctly, start by mapping the role you need in your specific format (anhydrous stick, silicone elastomer gel, emulsion, suspension, mascara, etc.). Then rebuild performance using a replacement stack: emollient architecture + filler system + film former strategy + dispersion quality.
Failure Modes After Removing Fluoropolymers
Once PTFE/fluoropolymers come out, the most common issues appear fast. For example, pay-off may drop, drag can spike, and rub-off tends to increase. In addition, matte systems often lose “blur” and start reading shiny, especially under humidity or sebum.
- Drag / squeak: friction increases during application, especially in sticks and lip systems.
- Reduced soft-focus: visible texture increases; pores look sharper under directional light.
- Lower payoff: pigments don’t deposit evenly; color looks patchy.
- Transfer / rub-off: film integrity drops; smudging rises.
- Whitening or streaking: particulate network changes; dispersion quality becomes unforgiving.
Replacement Strategy by Function
1) Slip and “dry glide” without fluorine
Slip is typically rebuilt using an emollient ladder plus rheology control. Notably, a single “silky ester” often feels good on rub-in yet fails on longevity. Therefore, combine fast-spreading hydrocarbons with a structured back-end that resists migration.
- Hydrocarbon spread: C13-15 Alkane, isohexadecane, hemisqualane-type sensorials
- Ester ladder: coco-caprylate/caprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate (or similar), lightweight triglyceride alternatives
- Gel architecture: non-fluorinated elastomer gels or polymeric gellants (chosen per system polarity)
As a rule, increase glide first with the emollient ladder; then stabilize “after-feel” using structuring (wax or polymer) so the formula doesn’t feel greasy over time.
2) Soft-focus, matte diffusion, and blur
PTFE often contributes to optical diffusion and surface feel simultaneously. To rebuild blur, use a balanced filler system rather than one powder. Additionally, reduce particle crowding so you don’t create chalky drag.
- Diffusion core: silica microspheres (porous or non-porous), polymethylsilsesquioxane (if appropriate), or starch-based microspheres
- Feel tuning: non-fluorinated boron nitride alternatives (where suitable), mica strategy adjustments, optimized talc-free systems
- Oil control: silica + starch ratios tuned for sebum uptake without excessive dryness
3) Transfer resistance and film integrity
Transfer control is rarely a powder-only problem. Instead, it’s a film formation problem: polymer choice, coalescence, plasticization, and pigment wetting all matter. Accordingly, rebuild transfer resistance using a film former stack, then lock it with appropriate structuring.
- Film former stack: acrylate copolymers, polyurethane dispersions (PUDs), or hybrid stacks selected for Tg and flexibility
- Flex control: plasticizer strategy that avoids tack while preventing cracking
- Wax synergy: small wax adjustments can dramatically improve rub resistance and removal balance
4) Water resistance without fluoropolymers
Water resistance is built through continuous film formation plus hydrophobe structuring, not through fluorine alone. Therefore, target a film that stays cohesive under water exposure while maintaining acceptable removal.
- Hydrophobe network: wax blends chosen for melting profile and payoff
- Polymer support: film former stacks that hold pigments and resist wash-off
- Dispersion quality: improved milling and wetting often restores more waterproof performance than adding more “waterproof ingredients”
PTFE Replacement Matrix
| Role PTFE/fluoropolymers played | What fails when removed | PFAS-free replacement stack | How to verify quickly |
|---|---|---|---|
| Slip / glide | Drag, squeak, uneven payoff | Hydrocarbon spread + ester ladder + non-fluorinated gel architecture | Coefficient of friction (COF) + short sensory panel |
| Soft-focus / blur | More shine, less diffusion | Silica microspheres + starch microspheres + tuned filler ratios | Gloss + image-based blur scoring |
| Transfer resistance | Rub-off, smudge | Acrylate/PUD film former stack + wax synergy + pigment wetting | Rub-transfer test + wear time check |
| Water resistance | Bleed, runoff | Hydrophobe wax network + cohesive film former strategy + dispersion improvements | Immersion/blot test + removal evaluation |
Format-Specific Guidance
Sticks and lip systems
Sticks tend to expose drag issues immediately. Consequently, start with slip (emollient ladder), then tune payoff with the filler system. After that, adjust wax ratios to recover transfer control without making the stick brittle.
Long-wear liquid foundation
For emulsions, film formers do most of the heavy lifting. Therefore, choose a film former stack first, then use fillers to tune optics and feel. Finally, optimize pigment dispersion to avoid streaking that becomes obvious when PTFE is removed.
Mascara and eyeliner
Here, failure typically shows up as flaking or poor waterproof retention. In practice, a flexible film former stack plus wax structuring usually outperforms chasing “one magic replacement.”
Testing Plan
Testing is where PTFE removal projects either become clean and controlled—or become endless subjective debates. Accordingly, pick a small battery of tests and run them the same way for baseline vs. prototype.
Bench tests
- Payoff / application uniformity: controlled drawdown on standardized substrate
- Transfer / rub-off: defined rub cycles with set pressure and fabric/paper type
- Water resistance: immersion + blot protocol (time, temperature, agitation controlled)
- Gloss / blur: gloss meter + standardized photography for diffusion comparison
- Stability screen: centrifuge + thermal cycling relevant to the format
Sensory panel (fast, controlled)
Keep the panel short and structured: glide, initial feel, after-feel, tack, and perceived wear. Then correlate panel outcomes with the bench test results so reformulation choices stay objective.
Troubleshooting
Drag increases after PTFE removal
- First, widen the emollient ladder (fast spread + mid-body + structured tail).
- Next, reduce powder crowding (lower total solids or rebalance silica/starch).
- Then, check pigment wetting and dispersion; poor dispersion mimics “drag.”
Transfer resistance drops
- Adjust the film former stack (Tg/flex balance), rather than only increasing powders.
- Add wax synergy carefully; too much creates brittleness and flake.
- Verify coalescence and plasticization; under-coalesced films transfer easily.
Soft-focus disappears and shine returns
- Increase diffusion using silica microspheres, then tune with starch microspheres.
- Control sebum uptake without overdrying; overly absorbent systems look patchy.
- Confirm optical performance under multiple lighting angles, not just one photo setup.
