GRAND CSA

Capryloyl salicylic acid is a derivative (ester) of salicylic acid developed by L’Oreal. In chemistry circles, it’s known as 2-hydroxyl-5-octanoyl benzoic acid, but skin care consumers most likely know it has lipohydroxy acid (LHA). The “lipo” portion is oil-soluble, although so is regular salicylic acid. To date, studies haven’t shown capryloyl salicylic acid is superior to salicylic acid; however, we know that LHA has a larger molecular size and along with its fatty acid structure has been shown to penetrate the skin slower than salicylic acid. In vitro studies have shown LHA tends to stay within the stratum corneum (the outermost layers of skin), while salicylic acid penetrates up to 58% further. This limitation may explain why capryloyl salicylic acid is not considered as effective for acne as salicylic acid. Speaking of acne, there is comparative research showing capryloyl salicylic acid used with benzoyl peroxide and/or a topical antibiotic produced slightly better results than using benzoyl peroxide and the topical antibiotic alone. While that’s encouraging, if you’re struggling with acne, regular salicylic acid should remain your go-to exfoliant.

INCI name

Capryloyl Salicylic Acid

Product details

Physical form at 25°C

Clear, colorless to pale yellow liquid.

Functions

    • Exfoliant

    • Anti-acne

    • Skin conditioning

Category

  • Exfoliant

  • Anti-acne agent

  • Skin conditioning agent

Applications

  • Skincare (serums, cleansers, toners)

  • Acne treatments

  • Sensitive skin care

Regional availability

  • Asia
  • Europe
  • Latin America
  • N America

Consumer benefit

  • Gently exfoliates without irritation

  • Reduces acne and prevents breakouts

  • Improves skin texture and tone

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