GlycoHemp

The barrier effect was assessed by determining the reduction in the passage of caffeine through the three-dimensional model of human epidermis reconstructed in vitro.

The moisturizing action of VegSYRUP-1 was evaluated through the analysis of three-dimensional models of artificially dehydrated epidermis, and subsequently treated with the sample in question.

HydraOIL’s moisturizing action was evaluated through the analysis of three-dimensional models of artificially dehydrated epidermis, and subsequently treated with the sample in question.

Formulated with α hydroxy acids and active ingredients of natural origin, JOrange-C restores elasticity, brightness, and provides an immediate cosmetic “lifting effect” to the skin on the face.

Formulated with active ingredients of natural origin, Antiox-CA, a complex of antioxidant actives, works to minimize the production of free radicals, responsible for premature skin aging, and promotes cellular renewal.

Thyrosinase (polyphenol oxidase), a copper-containing monooxygenase, is a key enzyme involved in melanogenesis. Thyrosinase catalyzes two different reactions: the hydroxylation of tyrosine and the oxidation of the o-diphenol product, L-DOPA.

INCI: Aqua, Dextran, Capsicum annuum Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Caffeine, Isopropyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate

INCI: Aqua, Dextran, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid

INCI: Aqua, Origanum vulgare Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Capsicum Annuum Fruit Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid

INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polyquaternium 10, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate

INCI: Aqua, Camelia sinensis Leaf Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate

INCI: Aqua, Rosmarinus Officinalis Lea Extract, Mentha piperita Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid

INCI: Aqua, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Extract, Bisabolol, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid

INCI: Aqua, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Echinacea Angustifolia Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Phenoxyethanol, Hyaluronicacid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, PotassiumSorbate, SodiumBenzoate, Citric Acid

INCI: Aqua, Camellia sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Glycolic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate. Citric Acid

INCI: Aqua, Silybum Marianum Extract, Plantago major Leaf Extract, Cinnamomum zeylanicum Bark Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate. Citric Acid

INCI: Aqua, Urea, Trehalose, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Glycerin, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Ascorbic Acid

Hairbiota Growth is an innovative, biotechnology-driven postbiotic designed to prevent and treat the visible signs of aging in the scalp and hair.

Rhamno Cleanse is an innovative, biotechnology-derived ingredient that offers a sophisticated balance of performance and sustainability.

Produced sustainably through the fermentation of probiotic bacteria, this advanced product is rich in polysaccharides and fructooligosaccharides.

SkinBiota Firm is a biotechnology-based postbiotic derived from probiotic microorganisms, such as Lactobacillus.

Skinbiota Youth is a state-of-the-art, biotechnology-driven postbiotic derived from microorganisms.

Vanillyl Butyl Ether stands out as a top-tier ingredient for adding a sophisticated vanilla scent to a wide array of products. With its luxurious aroma, exceptional stability, and versatile applications, it’s the perfect choice for enhancing your formulations and captivating your customers.

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate is a salt derived from glycyrrhizic acid, which is found in licorice root. It’s commonly used in skincare products for its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and anti-irritant properties. It can help reduce redness and inflammation, making it beneficial for conditions like eczema or rosacea. Additionally, it’s sometimes used in food and beverage products as a sweetener or flavoring agent.

Hyaluronic acid is a natural polysaccharide (large sugar molecule) that occurs in various tissues (skin, synovial fluids of joints, connective tissues). Responsible for tissue hydration, lubrication, & tissue stability,

Fatty Alcohol Polyoxyethylene Ether is free of APEO and NP, easy to degrade, and complies with most environmental requirements. Among all the variants, AEO-7 and AEO-9 are the most used in the home care cleaning industry. They are low-foaming with excellent detergency, increasingly used to formulate High-efficiency(HE) detergents.

Grand Mandelic Acid is an aromatic alpha hydroxy acid, soluble in water and polar organic solvents. It is mild and non-irritating, suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.  Grand Mandelic Acid can inhibit tyrosinase activity and reduce the production of melanin in the skin. It also can lift off dead skin cells gently and even skin color. So it has the effect of excellent Skin Brightening Properties & Lightening PIH (Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation). Thus, Grand Mandelic Acid is recommended for lotion, emulsion, essence, cream and other pruducts.

Grandpre HA, Hydroxyacetophenone, is a colorless to white solid with a slight balsamic odor. It is a monohydroxyacetophenone, which means that it has one hydroxyl group (-OH) attached to the benzene ring.

Grandpre PG is a water-soluble ingredient with two hydroxyl groups and a short carbon chain. This makes it an effective moisturizing and conditioning agent for skin and hair. The hydroxyl groups allow pentylene glycol to attract and bind to water molecules, while the short carbon chain makes it able to penetrate the skin and hair.

Grandpre EHG is a highly effective preservative that can improve the moisturizing properties of cosmetics and the overall feel of the product on the skin. It also has deodorizing properties and can work synergistically with other traditional preservatives.

Grandpre Hexanediol is a common chemical compound used in skincare and cosmetic formulations as a multifunctional ingredient, including as a preservative. It is also known as Hexylene Glycol, is a clear, colorless and it belongs to a class of compounds called diols, which are organic chemicals containing two hydroxyl groups (-OH) on adjacent carbon atoms. Its chemical formula is C6H14O2.

Grand Erythrulose, also known as Erythrulose, is a chemical compound commonly used in selftanning products. It is a four-carbon sugar with the chemical formula C4H8O4. It is a colorless to pale yellow liquid with a sweet odor. Erythrulose is a ketose sugar, meaning it has a ketone functional group.In self-tanning products, Grand Erythrulose functions similarly to DHA. When applied to the skin, it undergoes a chemical reaction with the amino acids present in the stratum corneum, resulting in the formation of melanoidins, which contribute to a tan appearance.

Grand DHA is a colorless sugar that reacts with the amino acids present in the outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum. This reaction leads to the formation of a brown pigment called melanoidins, resulting in a temporary tan or bronzing effect on the skin. It is a 3- carbon sugar derived from plant sources such as sugar cane or sugar beets. It has the chemical formula C3H6O3 and is classified as a reducing sugar. In the production of selftanning products, DHA is typically derived from these natural sources or can be synthesized in a laboratory.

Skinactive LBA, Lactobionic acid, is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is naturally produced by the fermentation of lactose. It is a gentler exfoliator than other AHAs, such as glycolic acid, and it is less likely to cause irritation. Lactobionic acid is also a humectant, which means that it attracts water to the skin. This helps to keep the skin hydrated and prevent it from drying out.

Skinactive BFL, or Bifida Ferment Lysate, is a bio-active substance obtained by biotechnology. It is a safe and mild ingredient that is easy to absorb by the skin.

Grand Azelaic, is an organic compound with the chemical formula HOOC(CH2)7COOH.
This saturated dicarboxylic acid, initially identified in rancid fats, is also present in dietary sources like w h o l egrains. Industrially, azelaic acid is produced through the ozonolysis of oleic acid, yielding nonanoic acid as a byproduct. It is also naturally synthesized by Malassezia furfur (formerly Pityrosporum ovale), a yeast commonly found on healthy skin.

Grand Capryloyl Glycine is a synthetic amino acid derivative that is used in skincare products. It is made by acylating glycine with caprylic acid chloride. It is a white to off-white powder that is soluble in water and alcohol.

Grand CSA, Capryloyl salicylic acid is a derivative (ester) of salicylic acid developed by L’Oreal. In chemistry circles, it’s known as 2-hydroxyl-5-octanoyl benzoic acid, but skin care consumers most likely know it has lipohydroxy acid (LHA). The “lipo” portion is oil-soluble, although so is regular salicylic acid.

Grand Azeloyl is a water-soluble ingredient that is made by combining azelaic acid with glycine. Glycine is a naturally occurring amino acid that has moisturizing and soothing properties. This makes grand azeloyl a good choice for people with compromised skin, as it can help to improve hydration and reduce inflammation.

Grand CBD is trendy, and current projections are expecting cannabidiol to become an essential ingredient within the beauty world. CBD oil is especially gaining more interest from the market players and is gradually more integrated to make-up formulae for example. New CBD infused make-up, haircare and skincare products are regularly launched, which also allows brands to come up with innovative techniques and revolutionary beauty formulae.

HEPES, or hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, is an aminosulfonic acid derivative that works enzymatically to help break down the bonds that hold dead cells to the skin’s surface. This allows for even exfoliation, which can improve the appearance of the skin by reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin texture, and brightening the complexion.

Glycolic acid is a naturally occurring AHA derived from sugarcane, beets, and other natural sources. It is the simplest AHA, containing both a hydroxyl group (–OH) and a carboxyl group (–COOH) on a two-carbon chain. Glycolic acid is well-known for its powerful exfoliating properties and is widely incorporated into various cosmetic and dermatological formulations to improve skin texture, tone, and overall appearance.

Chemical Properties

• Functional Groups: Glycolic acid contains a carboxyl group (–COOH) and a hydroxyl group (–OH) attached to a two-carbon backbone. This structure enables it to effectively exfoliate the skin by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface.
• Solubility: It is highly soluble in water and alcohols, making it easy to incorporate into aqueous-based formulations.
• pH: Glycolic acid is most effective in acidic pH ranges, typically between 3.0 to 4.0, which enhances its exfoliating ability and promotes skin cell turnover.

Functions and Benefits in Cosmetics

1. Exfoliation:

   • Exfoliating Agent: Glycolic acid is a potent exfoliant, known for its ability to penetrate the skin more deeply than other AHAs due to its small molecular size. It works by breaking the bonds between dead skin cells (corneocytes) in the stratum corneum, facilitating their removal. This results in smoother, brighter skin.
   • Skin Cell Turnover: By accelerating the shedding of dead skin cells, glycolic acid promotes skin cell turnover, which helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and skin discoloration.

2. Anti-Aging:

   • Collagen Production: Glycolic acid stimulates collagen production in the deeper layers of the skin, improving skin firmness and elasticity over time. This makes it a popular ingredient in anti-aging products.
   • Reduction of Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Regular use of glycolic acid can help minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by improving skin texture and stimulating collagen synthesis.

3. Hyperpigmentation and Uneven Skin Tone:

   • Brightening Effect: Glycolic acid is commonly used in products formulated for hyperpigmentation, including dark spots, age spots, and melasma. By exfoliating the skin and promoting cell turnover, glycolic acid helps to fade these spots and even out skin tone.
   • Improved Skin Tone: Its exfoliating action also helps to create a more luminous complexion by removing dull, dead skin cells that contribute to a lackluster appearance.

4. Acne Treatment:

   • Prevents Clogged Pores: Glycolic acid helps prevent the formation of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads) by removing dead skin cells that may clog pores. This makes it an effective ingredient in acne treatment products.
   • Anti-Inflammatory: Glycolic acid has mild anti-inflammatory properties, which can help reduce the redness and irritation associated with acne.

5. Moisturizing:

   • Humectant: Despite its exfoliating properties, glycolic acid can also function as a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin and promoting hydration. This makes it suitable for use in formulations for dry and dehydrated skin types.

Formulation Considerations

1. Concentration:
   Glycolic acid is used in concentrations ranging from 1% to 10% in over-the-counter formulations. Higher concentrations (20%-70%) are typically available in professional chemical peels or prescription treatments.

   • Low Concentrations (1%-5%): Often found in cleansers, toners, or moisturizers designed for daily use.
   • Higher Concentrations (10%-20%): Typically used in exfoliating masks, serums, or peels aimed at achieving more dramatic results.

2. pH Level:

   • The pH of a glycolic acid product is critical to its effectiveness. For optimal exfoliation, glycolic acid should be formulated in a slightly acidic pH range, generally 3.0 to 4.0. This allows the acid to function efficiently in removing dead skin cells while avoiding excessive irritation.

3. Skin Sensitivity:

   • Glycolic acid can cause skin irritation, redness, and peeling, especially when used in higher concentrations or if the skin is not accustomed to AHAs. It is recommended to start with lower concentrations and gradually increase usage to allow the skin to build tolerance.
   • Sun Sensitivity: Glycolic acid can increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV radiation, so it is crucial to use broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day when using glycolic acid-containing products.

4. Formulation Types:

   • Cleansers and Toners: Glycolic acid is commonly included in exfoliating cleansers and toners that help remove dead skin cells and improve skin texture.
   • Serums and Creams: Glycolic acid is often formulated into serums and moisturizers for targeted anti-aging, brightening, and acne treatments.
   • Peels and Masks: Professional peels or at-home masks often contain higher concentrations of glycolic acid for more intensive exfoliation.

Grand Ferulic, Ferulic acid, is a naturally occurring phenolic compound that is found in plants. It is a powerful antioxidant that can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals. Sodium ferulate and ferulic acid ester, which are derivatives of ferulic acid, retain the essential biological characteristics of ferulic acid.

Grand Kojic-D, Kojic dipalmitate, is a derivative of kojic acid that is produced by the fermentation and purification of glucose or sucrose under the action of kojic dipalmitate. It works by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production.

Grand Kojic, kojic acid, is a whitening agent that is produced by the fermentation and purification of glucose or sucrose under the action of kojic enzyme. It works by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production. Grand Kojic can also inhibit the activity of n-hydroxyindoleate (DHICA) oxidase and block the polymerization of dihydroxyindole (DHI). This makes it a rare single whitening agent that can simultaneously inhibit a variety of enzymes involved in melanin production.

Grand Arbutin, also known as arbutin, is renowned for its skin brightening and whitening properties and is widely used in cosmetic formulations.

Grand Glutathione is a naturally occurring compound that is composed of three amino acids: glutamic acid, cysteine, and glycine. It contains a sulfhydryl group, which gives it antioxidant and detoxifying properties. Glutathione can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and toxins, and it can also help to lighten the skin tone.

4-butylresorcinol is a brightening resorcinol derivative also known as rucinol. It’s a potent tyrosinase inhibitor that exploits synergies with vitamin C to dramatically improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation—especially melasma.

Skinactive PR, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, is a synthetic compound derived from resorcinol. It belongs to the family of phenolic compounds and exhibits potent antioxidant and skin brightening properties.

Skinactive HR is an advanced anti-aging ingredient with a range of benefits. Its key component, hexylresorcinol, provides cellular protection, safeguards DNA, prevents glycosylation, exhibits anti-inflammatory properties, and promotes extracellular matrix regeneration.

Grand Alpha-Arbutin is a highly valued cosmetic ingredient used in skincare formulations. Through a bioenzymatic transformation, it acquires a single α configuration, ensuring exceptional purity and stability.

GI-TA,Tranexamic acid, is an innovative and highly effective whitening agent that targets melanin reduction and pigmentation reduction. Traditional whitening agents primarily focus on inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase in melanosomes to reduce melanin production. However, these agents only partially inhibit melanin production and accumulation, and achieving a complete block is challenging.

Skinactive BK, Bakuchiol, is a naturally derived ingredient gaining popularity in skincare for its unique properties and benefits. It is a phytochemical compound derived from the seeds andleaves of the Babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia). It is classified as a meroterpene phenol,structurally resembling retinol (Vitamin A).

Grand Q10, also known as ubiquinone, is a naturally occurring compound found in all living cells. It is a type of coenzyme, which means that it helps enzymes function properly. Grand Q10 is essential for energy production in the cells, and it also has antioxidant properties.

Skinactive TA Thioctic Acid, is a naturally occurring compound and a coenzyme involved in energy metabolism. It is classified as a potent antioxidant due to its ability to scavenge free radicals and protect cells from oxidative stress.

Skinactive HU (Hydroxydecyl ubiquinone) is an antioxidant that is commonly used in cosmetics. It is a highly lipophilic compound that can effectively devour free radicals, which are the main cause of skin aging. Hydroxydecyl ubiquinone can also protect the skin from damage caused by external factors, such as UV rays and pollution. It can also delay the loss of skin collagen and provide the energy required for skin metabolism. Additionally, hydroxydecyl ubiquinone has a very strong penetration to the skin, making it an effective ingredient for anti-aging skincare products.

Skinactive HPT, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, is a synthetic ingredient that is used in a variety of skincare products. It is made by the reaction of xylose with 3-hydroxypropanal. The reaction is catalyzed by an acid, such as hydrochloric acid. The resulting product is a white to off-white powder that is soluble in water and alcohol.

Skinactive Retinol, also known as Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, is an advanced and highly effective non-irritating form of Vitamin A (retinol) that has gained popularity as a preferred anti-wrinkle ingredient in cosmetics.

Grand Ectoin, also referred to as “salt tolerant bacteria extract,” sourced from Halomonas Elongata.

Grand Astaxanthin is a remarkable cosmetic ingredient known for its skin conditioning and antioxidant properties. It is considered one of the most potent natural antioxidants available. By effectively eliminating harmful oxygen free radicals within cells, it enhances cellular regeneration and maintains overall bodily equilibrium. This helps reduce the accumulation of aging cells, safeguarding cellular and DNA health. As a result, it protects skin, supports hair growth, combats signs of aging, alleviates exercise fatigue, and boosts vitality.

Grand Ergothioneine is a natural antioxidant and a unique cellular protective agent with various physiological functions.

SkinCera AP, also known as Ceramide 6 II, is a type of ceramide commonly used in skincare formulations.

SkinCera NP, also known as Ceramide NP, is a naturally occurring lipid molecule that belongs to the ceramide family. It is an essential component of the skin’s barrier function and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin health and integrity. Ceramide NP is commonly used in skincare formulations for its various benefits.

Grand Polyglutamate (10kDa) is a variant of the viscous polymer of amino acids, typically in the form of sodium salts. Building upon the benefits of the larger molecular weight version, Grand Polyglutamate (10kDa) offers additional advantages for the skin.

Grand polyglutamate (700 kDa) is a viscous polymer of amino acids, commonly found in the form of sodium salts. Its structure comprises amino acid units linked by peptide bonds formed through α-amino and γ-carboxyl groups. This unique composition includes a significant number of side chain carboxyl acids that can establish hydrogen bonds within or between molecules.

Skinactive SA is a new moisturizing component that is different from any previous moisturizer. It is similar to hyaluronic acid in its action mechanism, but it has some unique properties that make it even more effective.

Panthenol, a vitamin ingredient, is highly valued in skin and hair care applications due to its moisturizing properties. It has anti-inflammatory effects and can soothe irritated and sensitive skin. In hair care, it is known for its humectant properties and its ability to improve the hair’s resistance to mechanical stress.

Skinactive CMC, also known as carboxymethyl chitosan (CMC), is a water-soluble derivative of chitosan, a natural polysaccharide derived from chitin. CMC is created by reacting chitosan with carboxymethyl groups, a process catalyzed by an acid, such as hydrochloric acid. The resulting product is a white to off-white powder that can dissolve in water and alcohol.

Carboxymethyl chitosan is a derivative of chitosan that has been extensively researched due to its water solubility in a wider pH range compared to the original compound. This extended solubility has increased its potential for various applications. In this review, the different preparation conditions resulting in N- and O-carboxylated chitosan, diverse degrees of substitution, and water solubility are summarized. Five important features of carboxymethyl chitosan from recent studies, including moisture absorption-retention, antimicrobial properties, antioxidant capacities, delivery system, and emulsion stabilization, are highlighted for potential cosmetic use. Additionally, comprehensive information on its cytotoxicity has been included to ensure its safety in application.

Skinactive Glucosamine, Acetyl glucosamine (also known as N-acetyl glucosamine or NAG), is a naturally occurring amino sugar that is found in the body. It is a precursor to hyaluronic acid, which is a substance that helps to keep the skin hydrated and plump. Acetyl glucosamine is also known to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

Polyquaternium-51 is a synthetic, polymeric quaternary ammonium compound. This means it is a large molecule with unique amphiphilic (water- and oil-loving) properties and has a charge that gives it conditioning and film-forming properties for skin and hair.

Its humectant properties stem from its structural similarity to lipids found in the surface cells of human skin, known as corneocytes. As a result, it works to preserve the skin’s barrier and helps prevent water loss.

In skincare products, the typical usage levels of polyquaternium-51 range from 0.5% to 5%, with concentrations of 2% to 5% most often used in rinse-out hair care products like conditioners. Smaller amounts, such as 0.021% to 0.05%, may be used in products like eye makeup or 0.02% in moisturizers. While a formal safety assessment hasn’t been published, a draft report exists which does not indicate that polyquaternium-51 poses a risk to the skin in the amounts currently used.

VC-TIP is an oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C, which possesses numerous beneficial properties when used as a cosmetic ingredient. These properties include skin brightening, promotion of collagen synthesis, and inhibition of lipid peroxidation.

VC-AA2G, also known as ascorbyl glucoside, is a stable derivative of vitamin C that offers numerous benefits in skincare. It is a water-soluble compound that combines the antioxidant properties of vitamin C with the stability and skin-friendly characteristics of glucose.

VC-SAP is a highly sought-after active ingredient found in advanced cosmetic skincare products. As a stable derivative of vitamin C, it plays a crucial role in protecting the skin and enhancing its overall appearance.
By breaking down enzymes within the skin, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate releases active vitamin C, thereby exerting potent antioxidant properties. This mechanism enables it to effectively safeguard cells from the detrimental effects of free radicals, thereby preventing cellular damage.

VC-MAP, a water-soluble whitening agent, exhibits remarkable properties that make it highly valuable in cosmetic formulations. Upon skin absorption, it demonstrates the ability to effectively counteract the detrimental effects of ultraviolet ray exposure, neutralize oxygen free radicals, stimulate collagen synthesis, prevent pigmentation effectively, and address various skin discolorations. The result is a well-hydrated, supple, smooth, and stable complexion. Notably, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is non-toxic and non-irritating, establishing it as an excellent additive for contemporary functional whitening cosmetics.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) is a stable, water-soluble derivative of Vitamin C. It is the magnesium salt of ascorbic acid-2-phosphate, and its stability makes it a preferred ingredient in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations, especially in those requiring longer shelf lives and reduced oxidation. As an antioxidant, MAP offers similar properties to pure ascorbic acid but with enhanced stability and reduced susceptibility to degradation in the presence of light, air, and heat.

Mechanism of Action:

1. Antioxidant Activity:
   MAP functions as a potent antioxidant by scavenging free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are generated by environmental stressors like UV radiation and pollution. By neutralizing these harmful molecules, MAP helps prevent oxidative damage to skin cells and the degradation of collagen, promoting healthier and more resilient skin.

2. Skin Whitening and Melanin Inhibition:
   Like other Vitamin C derivatives, MAP inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which plays a critical role in the biosynthesis of melanin. By reducing melanin production, MAP can lighten hyperpigmentation, age spots, and improve overall skin tone, resulting in a brighter complexion.

3. Collagen Synthesis:
   MAP promotes the synthesis of collagen and elastin by stimulating fibroblasts in the dermis. This contributes to improved skin elasticity, reduced fine lines, and overall skin firmness, supporting its use in anti-aging formulations.

4. Enhanced Stability:
   Unlike pure ascorbic acid, which is highly prone to oxidation when exposed to air and light, MAP maintains its potency for extended periods, even in aqueous formulations. This makes it an ideal choice for cosmetic products that require a longer shelf life.

5. Hydration:
   MAP has been shown to improve skin hydration, both by enhancing the skin’s moisture retention and by improving the integrity of the skin barrier function. Its hydrophilic nature supports its incorporation into formulations aimed at promoting a hydrated and healthy skin appearance.

Applications in Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Formulations:

1. Skincare Products:

   • Brightening Agents: MAP is commonly used in serums, moisturizers, and toners aimed at improving skin tone, reducing dark spots, and enhancing overall radiance.
   • Anti-Aging Products: Due to its collagen-stimulating properties, MAP is often included in formulations designed to reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and skin sagging.
   • Hydrating Formulations: MAP can be used in moisturizers and hydrating masks, as it also provides skin barrier repair and moisture retention benefits.
   • Acne and Hyperpigmentation Treatments: MAP is effective in reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) caused by acne, making it a common ingredient in acne treatment products.

2. Pharmaceutical Applications:

   • Wound Healing: MAP’s collagen-promoting properties can support wound healing and tissue regeneration, making it a potential candidate for pharmaceutical applications related to skin repair.
   • Cosmeceuticals: Due to its gentle formulation and effectiveness, MAP is frequently used in cosmeceutical products designed for skin conditions like hyperpigmentation, photoaging, and skin repair.

Stability and Formulation Considerations:

1. Formulation Compatibility:
   MAP is highly compatible with a wide range of excipients, including humectants (like glycerin and hyaluronic acid), emulsifiers, and other active ingredients. It is also stable in various pH ranges (pH 5-7), which makes it versatile in both aqueous and oil-in-water emulsions.

2. Storage Conditions:
   While MAP is more stable than pure ascorbic acid, it should still be stored in a cool, dark environment, preferably in opaque packaging to avoid prolonged exposure to light and air, which could still lead to a gradual reduction in potency over time.

3. Co-Formulation with Other Vitamin C Derivatives:
   MAP can be co-formulated with other stable Vitamin C derivatives, such as ascorbyl palmitate, for synergistic effects in skincare. However, formulations containing MAP should avoid highly acidic ingredients (such as pure ascorbic acid), as they may cause instability or precipitation in the product.

4. pH and Stability:
   The stability of MAP is largely dependent on the pH of the formulation. Maintaining an optimal pH between 5.5 and 7 will ensure its effectiveness and prolong its shelf life.

VC-EAA 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid is a stable, water- and oil-soluble derivative of pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that offers all of the primary benefits vitamin C is known for, such as brightening, wrinkle reduction, visible firming, fading hyperpigmentation to restore a more even skin tone and offsetting numerous triggers of environmental damage.

As a modified and more stable version of pure vitamin C, 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid must be converted to vitamin C within skin by sodium-dependent proteins. This process within skin’s surface layers helps ensure skin benefits.