Centella asiatica (CICA) is a triterpene-rich botanical increasingly favored by cosmetic chemists for its multi-pathway activity. It calms visible irritation, supports collagen organization, and reinforces the skin barrier. These effects are primarily attributed to its key triterpenes: asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid. These actives modulate inflammation, promote matrix synthesis, and accelerate re-epithelialization under stress.

Why chemists choose CICA

CICA stands out because it delivers mechanism-backed soothing with both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity PMC. It not only helps buffer oxidative stress but also protects keratinocytes from UVB-induced damage and pollutants. Furthermore, in vitro studies suggest it supports collagen I/III production, making it ideal for firming and “calm + firm” concepts PubMed.

Moreover, its wound-healing and barrier-recovery properties make it suitable for post-procedure and sensitive-skin applications MDPI.

Key actives and how they work

• Asiaticoside & madecassoside: These glycosides stimulate fibroblasts and regulate signaling pathways like ERK, AMPK, and mTOR. They also help reduce keratinocyte apoptosis under UVB exposure PubMed.
• Asiatic and madecassic acid: These triterpene acids support matrix remodeling and help re-epithelialize damaged skin PubMed.
• Together, these actives help buffer ROS, minimize redness, and support the skin’s structural integrity.

How to formulate with CICA

CICA works best in water-based formats such as serums, essences, gel-creams, and sheet masks. For added benefit, pair it with humectants (e.g., glycerin, panthenol), barrier lipids (e.g., ceramides, squalane), and peptides.
In addition, delivery systems like nanoemulsions or liposomes can be used to enhance bioavailability and stability of the triterpenes PMC.

Use cases include:

• Sensitive-skin recovery serums
• “Post-treatment” soothing masks
• Urban-exposed, antioxidant-rich emulsions

Research-backed claims

• Soothing: Helps reduce visible redness and calms sensitivity MDPI
• Barrier & hydration: Improves moisture balance and helps rebuild skin resilience PMC
• Antioxidant protection: Reduces oxidative dullness and protects against environmental stress PMC
• Firmness: Supports collagen and elastin for a firmer, more structured appearance PubMed

Formulator FAQs

What’s the difference between asiaticoside and madecassoside?
Both are glycosides from Centella asiatica. Each promotes collagen synthesis and reduces inflammatory markers, but they may differ slightly in antioxidant strength and delivery preference PMC.

Where should CICA go in the regimen?
Use after toning and before occlusive layers. It’s ideal for serums, gel-creams, masks, and recovery products in “minimalist” or “barrier-repair” routines.

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